Uganda experience

The Anglican Church in Mbale, Uganda, about an hour across the border, requested a Virtues workshop to train some of their members. I was reluctant to go, since I think we have our plate full with everything developing right here in Kenya, and I feared the costs that might be incurred, but I allowed myself to be persuaded on the promise of adequate fees being paid by participants to cover fuel, copies etc.
I made copies, loaded the laptop & projector and we left Monday, Rod driving our vehicle. He dropped us at the border crossing at Malava, which is just as chaotic as the one at Busia. There were close to 1,000 trucks lined up waiting to cross (this is the only road from the port of Mombasa into the heart of Africa) We saw that a trailer truck had overturned right in the customs area and was causing the back up.
The organizer of the workshop met us and was positive I didn’t need a visa. I have been across before without a visa, but only for a few hours at a time. However, I didn’t really want to pay $50US either. We took a back way and drove to the town and were taken to quite a nice hotel. So far, so good. We had been told to expect 15 or so people and had made copies for 20. There might be 30, we were told, but there was a copy shop close by. On the way to the hotel we passed by the hall rented for us, a huge place, but we decided we would use a stage at one end and white sheets would be tacked up for a screen.
It turned out that Monday was Eid, a Muslim holiday, and recognized in Uganda. So all banks etc were closed, leaving us without Ugandan currency until Isaiah managed to find a street money changer.
However, we had a pleasant dinner in gardens across from the hotel and were told breakfast started at 7 am. That would be good since we wanted to be setting up around 8. The breakfast room was in complete darkness and locked at 7, but by 7.40 there was food available. Of course, no one came to pick us up until nearly 9. At that time it appeared that some ‘officials’ in town wanted to meet the organizer and Isaiah, the Kenyan coordinator, to find out what we were doing. That sounded a bit strange, but since we have been dealing with government officials in Kenya, who have supported the programme we weren’t too concerned.
About 10 I agreed to start the teaching alone. There were about 15 people by then and some 10 more wandered in over the next 2 hours. I couldn’t give them all handouts. Isaiah and George, the coordinator, did not reappear. I soldiered on, not knowing what arrangements had been made for refreshments, lunch etc. There didn’t appear to be any provision made at the hall.
After four and a half hours of teaching with only a 15 minute break, Isaiah came back and took over the last part, thank goodness. We finished the workshop, had a meal (about 4 pm) and learned the bad news. Most participants had not paid the full agreed fee and there would be no money for copies or fuel, although the meal and our hotel could be covered. I was not surprised. Then we learned that there is a supposed law in Uganda that any ‘international’ project must register and pay a hefty fee in order to operate. Of course the name of the programme is ‘Virtues International’ and no amount of arguing could persuade them that we had no funds, we were unpaid and totally volunteer. George was threatened with arrest. The first fee they wanted was $700US but it reduced to $400 by the end of the afternoon.
It became apparent we could not leave without paying, or promising to pay, and I did not have a visa.
In desperation on Wednesday morning I took my bank card to Barclays to withdraw the *** money and get out of Dodge, only to find the Ugandan banks are not on any international system such as Cirrhus and I couldn’t withdraw anything.
Isaiah then went to write an affidavit promising to pay and we decided to set off for the border again. There was some difficulty taking the car through the gate and we thought they might ask to see our passports. So we loaded our bags & walked through with the crowd. Rod was waiting for us. The smiling Kenyan Immigration officer put a reentry stamp in my passport and said ‘Karibu tena’-- "welcome back"
While were driving I asked George how the officials knew we were there. After all this had been a private arrangement with a church group, not publicized in any way. It seems that in Uganda there are hundreds, if not thousands, of ‘security’ informants in plain clothes who report directly to the President. They monitor all rentals of space for group meetings. George hastily told me, as the driver listened, that all Ugandans were grateful for being kept so safe and well looked after.
On Thursday morning in Kakamega I withdrew $400 US and Isaiah traveled back to the border to meet George. There is some money in the Virtues bank account, so I am hoping to be reimbursed since cash is getting low as we start the second part of our stay.
This was a very good lesson in two ways: we have to have a deposit of some kind before we travel, not just empty promises of fees to be collected. Secondly, we need a guarantee from organizers outside Kenya that we will be able to operate legally.
Personally, it will be a long time before I agree to any more such undertakings.